Sleeve Heads are an important tailoring component used in garment construction, specifically in the making of jackets, blazers, and coats. They are strips of fabric or padding inserted at the top of the sleeve, between the sleeve and the shoulder seam, to create a smooth, rounded, and structured shape at the shoulder.

Material:

• Cotton or Wool Felt: Traditionally, sleeve heads are made from soft yet sturdy materials like cotton or wool felt, which provide structure while remaining flexible.
• Bias-Cut Fabric: Sometimes, lightweight fabric cut on the bias (diagonally) is used for sleeve heads. The bias cut allows the fabric to stretch and conform to the curve of the shoulder, creating a smooth line.
• Wadding or Light Padding: In some cases, a layer of light padding or wadding is included in the sleeve head to add additional volume and support, especially in more structured garments like tailored jackets.

Characteristics:

• Shape Enhancement: Sleeve heads help maintain the shape of the sleeve cap, preventing it from collapsing or sagging, which is crucial for achieving a clean, professional look in tailored garments.
• Support: By adding support to the top of the sleeve, sleeve heads ensure that the sleeve drapes correctly from the shoulder, enhancing the overall fit and appearance of the garment.
• Subtle Volume: Sleeve heads add a subtle amount of volume to the shoulder area without being as prominent as shoulder pads, providing a more natural, rounded shoulder line.
• Flexibility: Because they are typically made from soft materials, sleeve heads can move with the wearer, ensuring comfort and ease of movement without compromising the garment’s structure.
• Invisible Finish: Properly installed, sleeve heads are not visible from the outside of the garment, contributing to a polished, seamless finish.

Applications:

• Tailored Jackets and Blazers: Sleeve heads are most commonly used in tailored jackets and blazers, where they play a crucial role in defining the shoulder line and ensuring the sleeve sits smoothly against the body.
• Coats: In coats, especially those with a more formal or structured design, sleeve heads help maintain the garment’s silhouette and ensure that the sleeves hang correctly.
• Dresses with Sleeves: In some dresses, particularly those with structured or tailored sleeves, sleeve heads may be used to create a smooth, elegant shoulder line.
• Formal Wear: Sleeve heads are often included in formal wear like tuxedos and evening jackets to achieve a sharp, sophisticated shoulder appearance.

How to Use:

1. Cutting the Sleeve Head: Depending on the garment, the sleeve head is cut from felt, bias fabric, or wadding. It should be slightly curved to match the shape of the sleeve cap and long enough to extend across the top of the sleeve from front to back.

2. Positioning: The sleeve head is placed inside the sleeve cap along the shoulder seam. It should sit just above the seam allowance, between the lining and the outer fabric, ensuring it doesn’t show on the outside of the garment.

3. Sewing: The sleeve head is usually hand-stitched to the sleeve seam allowance. This allows it to stay in place without shifting, ensuring the sleeve retains its shape over time.

4. Finishing: After attaching the sleeve head, the sleeve is pressed to ensure it lies smoothly and the shoulder has a clean, rounded appearance.

Advantages:

• Enhanced Silhouette: Sleeve heads help create a smooth, rounded shoulder line that enhances the overall silhouette of the garment, making it look more polished and well-constructed.
• Support and Structure: By supporting the sleeve cap, sleeve heads prevent unsightly wrinkles and puckering, ensuring that the sleeve drapes beautifully from the shoulder.
• Comfortable Fit: Sleeve heads add structure without adding bulk, allowing for a comfortable fit that moves with the wearer.
• Durability: Properly installed, sleeve heads contribute to the garment's durability by helping the sleeve retain its shape over time, even with regular wear.

Considerations:

• Garment Style: The use of sleeve heads is most appropriate in tailored or structured garments where a clean shoulder line is important. They may not be necessary in casual or unstructured clothing.
• Fabric Compatibility: The type of fabric used in the garment can influence the choice of sleeve head material. For example, lighter fabrics may require a softer, lighter sleeve head, while heavier fabrics might need a firmer option.
• Skill Level: Installing sleeve heads requires careful sewing and attention to detail, making it a technique best suited for more experienced tailors or those familiar with garment construction.

In summary, sleeve heads are a key element in tailoring that enhance the fit and appearance of sleeves in structured garments. By providing subtle support and shape to the shoulder area, they help create a clean, professional silhouette that is essential in high-quality jackets, blazers, and coats. Whether for formal wear or everyday business attire, sleeve heads contribute to the garment’s overall polish and longevity.